Saturday, August 16, 2014

Deer & Doe and Sewaholic

I have a whole outfit to show you today!  Now that my class has finished, some stress is gone and I was able to get some sewing in.

I tried out the Deer & Doe Plantain tee and I took another crack at the Sewaholic Thurlows.


Let's talk about the Plantain first:
I traced a size 38 for the shoulders, 40 for the bust, and 44 for the hips



Adjustments:
1/2" square shoulder (normal for me)
Raised neckline by an inch


I placed these pieces over my favorite tee pattern (Ottobre 05/2013 #1) and the back looked like a great fit, the front looked a bit wider than my other one but I wanted to test it in it's true form before messing with it, so I left it as is.


I must say that the fit is awesome for only doing those 2 little alterations!  The back fits excellent and there is no neck gaping (for once!)  The hips fit great in the back and there isn't an issue with the swayback because there is enough ease to go over my rear.  The front is a bit large and drapey for what I"m used to, but that is the design of the tee. This fabric is very light and the stripes waving in the drapey front drive my ocd nuts! I think I'd be in love with it if it was a solid ;-)

I sewed the shirt with my serger and used my cover stitch for the hems.


Fabric: Designer Yarn Dye Rayon Jersey Knit Stripe Blue; 85% Rayon, 10% Polyester, 5% Lycra. It is very soft and a tad thin.  I purchased it from fabric.com in May 2014 for $3.98/yard.  The top used about 1.5 yards so the top only cost me $5.97

Verdict: I really like this top!  I will most likely make the front piece a tiny bit more narrow next time but otherwise it's great! (and it's free so win-win). I can't wait to try it in long sleeve with those cute patches!!!


Ok. Now for the Sewaholic Thurlows. . .
There are so many nice things to say about these so I'll get the one bad thing out of the way - they don't fit. They are just a tiny smidge to tight.  OMG. I can't win! lol.  My first pair was too big and this pair too small.  Over-fitting, that's all.  The crotch feels a bit snug and I have whiskers in the front.



On to the good:
I still love the all the details in these.  This time the steps took a tiny bit less than 6 hours and it was easier going.  I followed Lladybird's sew a long again for these.
I love how these fit and look.  I know they are too tight but man they look so RTW!  I also love how they fit my rear and I only have a tiny, tiny bit of gaping in the back.



Alterations:
I took 1/4" out of each side in the back, but then only sewed with 1/4" SA so it was a wash there.
Because of the bagginess in the front last time, I took out a 1" dart at the top, tapering to 0 at the bottom of the shorts - from each side, so 2" total out of the front. I adjusted the waistband to fit this as well so 2" out.



I sewed these up mostly with my vintage Kenmore that I got from goodwill. OMG I am falling more and more in love with this machine.  This is the first project I've sewn on it.  The flexibility to start, stop, and reverse at my whim was awesome.  The machine sewed over many thick seams without one flinch.  I got to use the buttonhole attachment - that really blew my mind and was so fun.  Ah! I love it.



Fabric: It came labeled as Jade Green Floral Twill but the selvage tells me it is "Valori Wells Sole' Home Dec Fabric, Agapantha in Aqua." It was cheap so I don't mind and it sewed beautifully. I picked it up from FashionFabricsClub.com in May 2014 for $5.45/yard.  We will say I used 2 yards, only because I don't remember and that is what the pattern calls for.  So $10.90 total.



Verdict: I really had a blast sewing these shorts up and I was able to practice some pretty hard techniques in the process (I'm looking at you double welts!).  I'm sad they are too tight - I mean, I can't even sit down in them! lol. However, this fabric has ZERO stretch so I'll take that into account. Anyway I'll have at the pattern again sometime after I've had a break from it.
Next time I will need to address my large front thighs and look at a large rear adjustment.  the shorts are pulling toward the front right now at the side seams (because of the thighs). Eh, it was worth all the effort as I enjoyed myself.


~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Baby Sewing ~ Ottobre 03/2014 #2 & #3 and randomness

No, no babies on the horizon in this household.  My nephew is turning 1 on Friday and my DD wanted to take him an outfit.  I've never sewn a little one's outfit.  I settled on the Baboon jersey pants from the 03/2014 Ottobre and a matching "Spot Fish" T-shirt.  How cute are they?


Little clothing doesn't take much yardage but the pieces are much smaller to work with!  I didn't like the way I first attached the neck binding on the tee so I picked it off and then attached it the way I usually do.


Tee:
View A - size 86cm - 1/2 yard stash
Nothing new or exciting to report on the Tee - I think I can sew them in my sleep now.  The instructions were good, I read through them after I finished sewing it up. I used my cover stitch for the hems and to top stitch the bindings on the neck and sleeves.  I also added Fusible stay tape to the shoulders.



Pants:
View A - size 86 - 1/2 yard total between the blue and contrast fabrics
The pants were fun to sew (insert sarcasm). OMG. Attaching the butt circles was a pain because you are putting one concave curve into one convex curve - like sleeves but more severe.  I top stitched the circle seams down.  I didn't know what - and didn't care to read slowly - the instructions were asking for the leg cuffs.  I simply folded them in half wrong sides together and sewed them R sides together to the legs - like I do for bindings. Then I cover stitched the seams down.  I did this before sewing the legs together.
I omitted the drawstring because an active 1 yr old boy may get into trouble with it.  I serged the elastic onto the waist, in the round, then flipped it over to the inside and top stitched with the cover stitch.


They turned out really cute, but look big.  I hope he enjoys them. (he is a large 1 yr old so that is why I went for the 86cm size).
back

front
Fabric:
Blue: Laguna Stretch Cotton Jersey Knit Royal, by Kaufman. I picked it up from Fabric.com in Feb 2014; 1/2 yard was $3.49
White: Fast Food Cotton Knit bought from Fabricfairy.com Feb 2013; 1/2 yard was $4.50
Total for the outfit: $7.99

In other randomness, I have been making a back to school sewing list and one of the priorities is Underwear for K.  She now only wears the Jalie 3242 ones I sew.  I cut out 12 pairs and managed to get 6 sewn so far.  I took to putting the elastic on top of the waist part and cover stitching them down, like I've seen in RTW ones before. This was much faster and wears all the same.


 The green floral is from an outgrown tank top, The pink is from an outgrown tee, and the blue are from scraps from K's maxi dress.


The oranges are scraps from K's T-shirt dress, the birds are from her PJ shirt - now too small, and the wild black and white are scraps from her T-shirt.   I estimate about 3/8 yard for each 2 pairs. (1 pair needs 11" high by 24" long) So, 1 1/8 yards were used for these 6.  (3/8 from stash, 3/8 from new fabric, and 3/8 from old clothes)

Mesewing:
I have another pair of Thurlows altered, cut out, and ready to be sewn up and I'm going to be working on a Plantain too.

I'm in my "finals" week of class here so who knows when I'll get to them.  I've been very stressed and it has aggravated my chronic health issues, which in turn zaps all my energy to do anything. I'm sure I just need to get through this class (1.5 more weeks!) and the 12 page paper this week..... and I'll be less stressed and feeling better.
Nala thinks so anyway

August Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 7/8 yards
Fabric Out: 2 1/8 yards
Fabric In: 0 yards

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 35.75 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 129.5 yards
Fabric in 2014: 141.25 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Friday, August 1, 2014

July Recap 2014

The months are just flying by!  July has come and gone. I have gone through all the kids clothes and it makes me sad to see how much they have outgrown.  Mr. T doesn't have a single pair of jeans now and Miss K outgrew an entire laundry basket full of dresses, tops, and bottoms. August will be spent on school clothing preparations as well as trying to finish up my Summer Sewing Plans.

Here are my makes for the month of July


And I thought it would be fun to include a photo collage of what fabrics I purchased and received in July
The wilderness one is 1.5 yards of flannel for T's pj shorts.  Orange Koi, Black Pie Man, Blue Mouse & Cookies, and Purple Bunny Tea are all from Sweet n' Charmed Facebook group and are knits (I LOVE them all, omg).  The white "nursery" flannel is for K's pjs.  The multi colored vines are for a dress for K and the purple pac man is a French Terry for K. Yardage totals 11.5 yards


And my fabric ins and outs totals are here:
July Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 4.75 yards
Fabric Out: 10 yards
Fabric In: 11.5 yards

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 35.75 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 129.5 yards
Fabric in 2014: 141.25 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Vintage Pajamas for the Young Gentleman

Each time I sew with a vintage pattern I am reminded how amazing and lovely they are.  There are markings galore (seam allowances, seam joining numbers, what to do, hem allowances, etc), detailed steps and pictured steps, pieces fit together correctly, and things turn out wonderful and professional looking.



The only bad part of sewing with vintage patterns is that I'm super sensitive to the smell.  I seriously have to wear a mask and gloves when I trace the patterns. :(  Sadly I still tend to break out in hives.  I'm not sure why either. Did every vintage person sew with a cat maybe?  Anyway, it is a small price to pay for the beautiful patterns that result.  After I trace them onto my own tissue paper (You can see my post on what I use and why- here), then I am good to go.

McCall's 3041

I had this adorable pattern for Mr. T with the intent on making him a martial arts looking bathrobe.  That never happened. I realized it was a size 10 and T is pushing into a 12 so if I was to use this pattern, the time is now.

The fabric has it's own story.  I purchased it from Fabric.com in May 2014 - 1.5 yards.  It is called Kaufman Pinpoint Oxford Stretch Shirting Blue. I had hoped to make a dress shirt for T out of it but it was too light in color.  I attempted to return it, received a refund of a whole $7.41, but fabric.com didn't want me to ship it back to them.  So it was free fabric I guess.  Now I kind of feel bad because the fabric is lovely.  It is soft, but crisp enough. It washes well and sews just beautifully.  I am going to see about getting it in different colors.  I could see a button up shirt for me as well as one for T out of this.  Oh, it also has just a touch of lycra in the cotton for a tiny bit of stretch. I highly recommend it.  


Back to the pattern:  It called for 1.75 yards. I had no problem getting the main pieces from the 1.5 yards of blue.  I then used some stashed "Geeks gone wild" (hoarded and beloved) fabric left over from T's amazing bathrobe (that he never wears, sniff sniff) for the accents of pocket, back facing, and front v-neck part.  


Shorts: 
I'll start with them because they are fast and easy.  I just fit them on the folded piece of fabric.  They ended up JUST fitting. So if I made this again I'd widen them about a 1/2 inch on each side.  There is just one pattern piece for the shorts. I made a mock fly instead of the actual fly because I cut my fly facing the wrong way :( and then decided I didn't want to mess with the pattern directions on it.  So I just used my fast and easy way (seen in drawing on this post). I lowered the rise on these by 2.25 inches (talk about high waisted shorts!) because I knew T wouldn't like them that high.  I also sewed the elastic to the top edge, flipped it over, and then cover-stitched.  I didn't want to mess with a casing. 


Shirt: 
Mr. T is a little bit larger in the waist and hip than the pattern calls for - so I added 1/2" to the bottom hip area in front and back pieces, then tapered this up to nothing at the armpit.  I also added 3/4" to the length of the shirt because T likes his longer. The sleeve had 3 inches of ease to squeeze in! It was exhausting.  I have a tiny bit of puckering on both but I'm ok with them.  Next time I would try to reduce that ease, the sleeves have plenty of room for T to move around in without it all. 


The only snag I ran into was attaching the v-neck part together. I couldn't grasp what the pattern asked for.  After doing the back yoke I realize now what the front wanted.  You fold and iron the SA to the right side of the shirt, then fold the SA on the V-neck part to the wrong side of itself.  After this you place the V on to the shirt and stuff the shirt SA under the folded V SA and top-stitch.  Whew. Confusing.  I just did my own thing and it turned out fine.  



The Fit: 
As I mentioned, the shorts just fit.  The top fits nice.  These turned out really cute and I couldn't be happier. 


Can you believe this was the only thing I managed to sew for the Pattern Stash contest at PR?  Last year I did so well, this year the lure of new patterns grabbed hold of me.  


July Totals:
(stash is anything purchased before this year)
Stash used: 4.75 yards
Fabric Out: 10 yards
Fabric In: 11.5 yards

Totals for the year to date:
Stash sew this year: 35.75 yards
Fabric out in 2014: 129.5 yards
Fabric in 2014: 141.25 yards

~ Happy Sewing! ~ Kristin ~